WHY CLOTH?

Health Concerns: Most disposable diapers contain many harmful chemicals including chlorine, dioxin (a known carcinogen), fragrance and others. It is well documented that repeated exposure may cause many serious health issues. 

Cost Effectiveness: Cloth is by far more cost-effective. A one-size cloth diaper fits newborns until they are toilet-trained. 

The initial cost of $300-$1000(sometimes higher depending on the styles of cloth diapering you choose) for cloth diapers and covers is a good investment when compared to disposable diapers. The average cost to diaper a child in name-brand disposable diapers is approximately $1200 a year. 

If your child is in diapers for two years before they are toilet trained, $2400 has been spent on disposable diapers alone and this is for one child only.  Cloth diapering can save you, on average, $2000 over two years.

When comparing the costs including time, water, detergent and utilities over a two-year period, cloth diapers are by far more economical and do not pollute the environment.
You can change your baby as many times a day as you want without the worry of “throwing your money in the garbage”. 

Comfort: Cotton is much softer on a baby’s bum than the paper and plastics of disposables.
The fleece lining in the pocket diapers is extremely soft.  Fleece lining keeps moisture away from baby’s bum, keeping baby dry and comfortable.
Wool covers allow for maximum air flow and keeps baby cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Environmental: It takes many years for a disposable diaper to breakdown in landfill sites.  Also, many people do not follow the guidelines on the disposable diaper packaging, which states, “All solid waste should be flushed down the toilet and never disposed of within the diaper”.  This contaminates our landfill sites with human waste therefore polluting our environment even more.

An average baby will go through 6,000 – 8,000 disposable diapers before they are toilet trained.

Cloth diapers can be reused for the second and even more children if they are cared for properly. 

Faster Toilet Training: Babies in cloth diapers are toilet trained much faster than babies in disposables because they are able to feel the wetness against their skin compared to the disposable diapers, which contain chemical absorbents that mask the natural wet, feel.

After reviewing all of this information, how can we continue to support the ongoing destruction of our valuable forests for a “chemically-laden disposable diaper” along with all of the well-documented health risks? 

In this “fast-paced, throwaway everything society” our children deserve the best that we can offer, and cloth diapers will have a positive effect in providing a safer and healthier beginning for them and promoting a more chemically-free and less-toxic world.

How many do I need?

The number of diapers you need depends on how often you are going to wash them. 
Infants usually use 8-12 per day and 6-8 per day for older babies/toddlers.
We usually recommend that you start out with 2 dozen diapers, washing every other day.
Most people use a mix of prefolds, one-size cloth diapers and pocket diapers. 

You will also need 4-6 covers of each size, rotating them as you change your baby.
Covers only need to be washed when they are soiled or begin to have an odour.

Washing Cloth Diapers

Everyone develops their own method for washing diapers.  Here is what works for us.
We wash every day to every second day, three days maximum.
You can use a dry pail, a pail liner (Bummis tote bags work great!) or add a little bit of vinegar and water to the pail to deodorize the dirty diapers.

• Always wash new diapers 3-4 times in hot water before use, as they will not yet be absorbent.  During these pre-wash cycles it is best to wash your microfibre inserts separately.  The natural oils in cotton or hemp can adhere to microfibre causing them to repel liquids.
• Diapers and covers have fold-back tabs.  Always fold the Velcro® tabs back before laundering to prevent a “diaper ball” in the washer or drier.

• Shake off any poop into the toilet.  An added layer of fleece or Bioliner allows for the poop to fall right off.  Some people suggest rinsing the diaper but that is a personal preference. You do not need to rinse off breastfed baby’s mustard-like poop, just put straight into the pail.
• Put the diapers on the pre-rinse cycle with COLD water and no detergents (a hot water pre-rinse will actually set the stains into the diaper). If you are using a wet pail system you can skip the pre-rinse step.
• After the pre-rinse, put them on the longest cycle with HOT water and detergent.  We like to use biodegradable, fragrance and phosphate free detergents. 

• If your washing machine has a second rinse cycle, turn it on, as it will give the diapers a cleaner rinse.
• When the wash is finished place diapers in the drier on the hottest setting until completely dry, or line dry(Our personal favourite)

Helpful Tips

• DO NOT use fabric softener as this will make your diapers water resistant and decrease the absorbency of the cotton, hemp or microfibre.
• DO NOT use bleach as this will cause the fibers of the diaper to break down over time. 
• Hanging the diapers outside in the sun will act as a natural bleach to remove any protein stains on the diapers and is a wonderful way to freshen up your diapers.
• Periodically add ½ a cup of vinegar to the final rinse.  This will deodorize and brighten the diapers and also acts as a PH balancer.
• Leaving the lid off of the dirty diaper pail actually reduces the odours.
• To strip diapers of diaper cream build up and detergent residue, add 2 scoops of Nature Clean Oxygen Bleach to a very hot wash.

Diaper Covers

Never store dirty diapers and covers together, as the covers will take on the ammonia smell over time.  Covers should be hand or machine washed when they are soiled or begin to take on an odour, and hung to dry. 

PUL (polyurethane laminate) covers:

• Can be washed at the end of the day or every second day
• Any type of detergent works well
• Hang to dry

Wool covers:

• Only need to be washed every 2 weeks or so, unless they are soiled.
• Hand wash, lukewarm water.
• Lanolize your wool covers prior to use, Our liquid wool wash and wool wash bars contain both lanolin and detergent.  Or dissolve ¼ tsp lanolin in hot water, do not rinse.(See below for more detailed information on washing and troubleshooting information regarding wool covers)
• Organic wool wash bar, baby shampoo or a gentle detergent to remove stains
• Gently squeeze to remove water, do not rub or wring
• Roll wool in towel to squeeze out excess moisture
• Lay flat or line dry only, away from strong heat or direct sunlight
• Occasional lanolizing keeps the self-cleansing properties of wool functioning and lifespan and performance will be enhanced

Fleece Covers:

• Wash in hot or warm water
• Dry at a regular setting in the dryer
• Do not over dry

Stripping Pocket Diapers

If your pocket diapers are repelling liquids it may be caused by build up that occasionally needs to be stripped from the fleece.

Build up refers to residue left by detergents, fabric softeners, baby creams especially those containing zinc oxide, and other substances used to clean diapers. In rare instances, baking soda will react with certain minerals in water and also cause build up. If you notice a decrease in the absorbency of your diapers, build up may be the culprit.
Stripping is the process of removing residue from your diapers.

To strip diapers:

• Hand wash your diaper with regular dish soap to remove any oils.
• Put a small amount of dish soap on the fleece layer.
• Rub vigorously or use a medium bristle scrubbing brush to scrub the fleece.
• Turn the diaper inside out and repeat.
• Rinse thoroughly until the water runs clear.
  

You may use this method at any time you notice repelling or as a preventative measure once a week. If you are still having problems, you may want to try 2 scoops of Nature Clean Oxygen Bleach in a very hot wash to strip your diapers.

Help, My hemp gets stinky as soon as it gets wet!

Hemp is very absorbent, and it can develop "stink issues" over time.  This is usually due to detergent build-up. 

• Try washing with about 1/3 cup each of baking soda and vinegar.  You may need to run a couple of wash cycles: you will know the residual detergent is gone when the water doesn't look soapy at the end of the cycle.
• You can also try boiling your hemp for five minutes.  Do NOT do this if your diaper or insert has snaps as you will ruin the snaps!

Troubleshooting and FAQ for Wool Covers

Source: Sudz N Dudz

To rinse or not to rinse, that is the question.

RINSE, RINSE, RINSE! Before washing because it cleans off the caustic urine salts that are coating the wool which dry the fibers and make it stinky which is why you are washing in the first place! After, because the cleaning/lanolizing you just gave it will last longer without soap residue sitting there, interfering with the natural abilities of the wool turning rancid (and smelly) from exposure to urine.

Why is the liquid wool wash so thin?

Because liquid soap is actually supposed to be like that. Most of us are used to the thick, full-bodied shampoos, shower gels, and hand "soaps". In reality most of these are actually chemical detergents, not true soaps. Most of them have thickeners in them. While adding thickners to my soap is an option, I believe it is an unneccesary and deceptive practice. Proportionately, you'd end up with less soap per tube, and I'd have to charge you more for the expense of the thickeners. Just trust me on this one, a little goes a long way! You will notice, that while the liquid soap is thin, it is not watery. When you feel it between your fingers, it is smooth and slippery like soap should be.            

Why does the liquid wool wash separate into layers?

Each oil used in soapmaking has it's own unique properties. Some of them, when saponified, form water-soluble soaps. Some do not. The white creamy part that rises to the top consists of non-water-soluble soaps and the clear-ish stuff that sinks to the bottom is the water soluble soap. The lanolin, if the wool wash is let to sit undisturbed for a while, will form a third orange-ish layer at the very top.                                                                                                  

What's the difference between the wool wash bars and the liquid wool wash? Do I need both?

The liquid wool wash and wool wash bars are equally mild and smell wonderful, but they do have different functions. The liquid is great for using on wool that just needs a little freshening. It will not strip the lanolin from your wool and, in fact, it will replenish what is normally lost during washing. The bar, on the other hand, is essential for removing food, dirt, and poo stains. It's cleansing properties are unrivalled and it is very rich in lanolin. Regular use of the wool wash bar can significantly reduce the frequency of lanolizing treatments or even completely eliminate them.                                             

What’s the difference between liquid lanolin and solid lanolin (the sticky stuff)?

Their source is the same, the contents different. Their purpose is the same, the effectiveness different. Both my liquid and solid lanolin are extracted from sheeps wool. Both are pesticide and detergent free. Liquid lanolin has been centrifuged to remove the wax from the woolfat/oils. Both are used for lanolizing wool but solid lanolin, because it retains the waxy component, is a more effective water-proofer. Many people find, especially on processed wool, that exclusive long-term use of liquid lanolin is inadequate and that periodic lanolizing treatments with a form of solid lanolin are required to keep their wool at peak function.                                                                                   

How often should I lanolize?

I could write a dissertation on this one alone! I wish I could offer a straight answer on this one, but instead I'll give you a list of the many factors that can affect the frequency of lanolizing: how often you wash, what kind of wool wash you use, what kind of lanolin you use (see above), which lanolizing method you use (see below), how often you change diapers, nighttime vs. daytime use, the age of your child (urine concentration), the force of the urine stream, the number of covers in rotation or how frequently the wool is worn, how dirty or stained the covers get, whether the wool is worn as pants or is covered by clothing, how processed the wool was, how old the wool is, and of course, how sticky (or not) you prefer your wool. If you are using Sudz bar or liquid, which were designed to reduce the frequency of lanolizing treatments, you can expect to go at least twice as long as you had previously waited between lanolizing treatments. For most, this will be about every 6-8 washes (rather than 3-4).                                                                                           

Can I lanolize dry wool?

Sudz N Dudz has blended lanolin with small amounts of oils, carefully chosen for their antioxidant properties and their ability to penetrate the cuticle of the wool fiber. Voila! She has a silky smooth balm that leaves your covers soft, pleasantly scented, and ready for duty! No waiting, no mess.

One of the many benefits of this method, is you can do tiny booster treatments and always keep your wool at peak performance, rather than the over-kill of sink lanolizing and the slow fade in effectiveness over the weeks following. So why would anyone want to use the wet/sink method? Well, it is rather soothing to gently swirl your wool in a warm basin of water, isn't it? Anyone with an ample supply of wool won't be concerned with the dry time.

Soft water makes dissolving/emulsifying the lanolin MUCH easier than with hard water.                                                                                                    

How do I do a wet lanolin treatment with liquid lanolin?

Melt 1/4 tsp of liquid lanolin in hot water, in a mug.
Add to a sink full of tepid water. Not too hot or you will shrink your wooly!
Place cover in water, swirl around and make sure the cover is saturated with water.
Let soak for at least 15 minutes.
Pull plug and allow water to drain through the cover, otherwise you are letting your lanolin run down the drain.
Gently squeeze excess water out and if you like, you can roll the cover in a towel to speed up the drying process(this may take some lanolin out of your cover so if you are having leaking issues, skip the towel drying).
Lay flat to dry away from direct heat or sunlight. Drying usually takes 24 hours.
                                                                                                                      

I have hard water. What does this mean and how will this change my wool care routine?

If you have hard water, there are minerals (calcium and magnesium) dissolved and suspended in your tap water. These minerals react with air & water to oxidize, forming what you see as hard, white, stubborn film on your dishes, pipes, and sinks. This same film will coat the fibers of your wool, sealing the cuticle and reducing or even eliminating it’s urine absorbing properties. Wool that is washed in hard water may also feel rough or dry. This doesn’t necessarily mean it needs lanolizing, it might just mean you have mineral build-up. To prevent this, rinse the wool in a mild vinegar solution before washing.

I’ve washed this wool dozens of times with no problems, why did the color run this time?

1. What was the water temperature? A few degrees either way can make all the difference in the world. Water that is too hot or too cold can release dye, felt the wool, remove lanolin, and set stains. Ideal wool washing temperature is 85 degrees Fahrenheit…too cool for a bath but too warm to drink!
2. When was the last time you washed? Don’t wait till your wool reeks of urine to wash it. What you smell are ammonia salts and they are very drying and NOT good for your wool. When dissolved in the wash water, they make it highly caustic. High pH will leach color, felt the wool, and strip the lanolin. It is best to rinse your wool before each wash to remove the excess urine and prepare the fibers for washing.
3. How old is the wool? Wool is a natural fiber, and like our hair, prone to occupational stress! Plus it has been removed from it’s natural source of nourishment and moisture and it has to rely on us to care for it properly and protect what's left of the internal lanolin. Time will take it’s toll on wool and eventually, no matter how gently it is cared for, the fibers will weaken, the cuticle will open and color will gradually fade.
4. How much soap did you use? How often do you wash? No matter which brand you use, a little goes a long way, trust me on this one. If you washed your hair too often, or with too much shampoo, no matter how mild it was, it would also lose it’s color because the cuticle has been weakened.

My wool gets sticky spots on it when I lanolize.

Wool that has been heavily processed (commercial detergents, felting, dye, etc…) has had most of it’s natural lanolin removed, leaving it very thirsty. Traditional lanolizing is difficult because the lanolin, whether liquid or solid tends to float on top of the water rather than disperse evenly IN the water. Mixing your lanolin in HOT water, with a bit of baby shampoo to emulsify it, then adding it to the sink-full of tepid water is a common solution. Lanolizing dry wool, rather than wet wool might also be helpful in this case. If you use a lanolin spray, increase the distance between the pump and the wool, using a towel to protect your counter or floor if necessary. This will ensure a fine even mist is distributed over the wool. Be sure to press the button all the way down and allow it to rise all the way up before pumping again. NO WIMPY PUFFS! This will allow the straw to fill completely with spray and the pump will be fully primed, reducing the risk of squirts and dribbles. If you use solid lanolin or my lanolin balm, warm it and spread it in your hands before patting it into your wool. Use just enough to put a thin coat on your skin, you can always repeat if you need more.
                                                                                                                      
Why don't we wash wool after every use?

Wool is a natural fiber containing natural oils (fatty acids). It has a natural pH between 5.5 and 6.5 (meaning it is slightly acidic). Urine is mostly urea (which smells like ammonia) and ammonia (pH 7.5-8.5...a weak base) If you remember anything at all from Chemistry 101 it's "acid + base = water & a salt". This holds true on our precious wool. The water, however evaporates, leaving salt residue on the wool fibers. Salt is neutral, and generally does not have an odor which is why we can re-use wool once it is dry. After repeated use, the acidic lanolin is "used up" by the caustic urine and any further peeing will leave an odor because there are no fatty acids present with which it can be neutralized into a salt. You may have read somewhere that wool is self-cleansing and doesn't need to be washed with soap because the lanolin and the urine combine to make their own soap. While true soap is chemically a salt, this statement is grossly inaccurate. Your baby would have to have a serious chemical imbalance to produce urine strong enough to convert the lanolin and woolfats into a true soap and you'd have much bigger problems to worry about than saving a few bucks on woolwash! Wool soap IS necessary and it should have three properties: the ability to cleanse the wool of any dirt or stains, the ability to do so GENTLY (without stripping it of its natural moisture and oils), and the ability to replenish the moisture and lanolin lost through processing, use, and time.